Page Created 11/2011
Page Updated 12/1/11
Page Updated 5/6/12
Page Updated 2/12/15


Thank you for visiting!

All motors are factory new (but in some cases old), have been stored so they do not touch another motor or a metal surface, and are un-unused. I verify that they work properly (run smoothly, have what my experience tells me is appropriate power for that motor), and pack them carefully for shipping. They are shipped with delivery confirmation, and no refunds are given if the motor is not received (take the issue up with the shipper you told me to use).

If you buy a motor from me, please be sure to read Usage Information at the bottom of this page regarding care and handling of your motor. If you have any question about what you read there, please contact me first before doing anything!

Because of the wide variety of uses for these motors, I have not compiled all the specification data into a matrix that allows easy comparison among all the motors.

Faulhaber 2342

Source of the below data: Faulhaber spec. sheet, date unknown.

Length (front of sleeve on shaft to end of shaft protrusion at the back, actual measurement): 48MM (1.87")
Diameter: 23MM (.9")
Shaft length (not including sleeve at the housing): 10MM (.39")
Shaft Diameter: 2MM (.078")
Features: ball bearings, neodymium magnets (more power for the size)
No load RPM: 8100 (recommended maximum is 7000)
Stall Torque (mNm): 80, oz-in (calculated from the recommended maximum): 2.7
Stall Current (recommended maximum (thermal limit), amps): 1.4
DCC Decoder(s) that I have used successfully with this motor: In general the Soundtraxx Tsunami 1 amp. decoder will work OK with this motor. However, I used this motor with the Tsunami in a Lobaugh 2-8-2 but could not tune the load compensation so that the loco would pull a train up a 2.5% grade (performance on the flat was OK). So my recommendation is that this motor not be used with a Tsunami in any O scale loco with a trailing truck or more than 4 driver axles.

Price each: $40 + $8 S&H.

Canon FN30

Source of the below data: Canon spec. sheet dated 2003.

Length of housing (measurement of the actual motor) not including end bearing bosses: 48MM (1.88") Add 1.5MM (.061") per end for the bearing bosses.
Diameter (measurement of the actual motor): 30MM (1.17")
Brush end shaft length (measurement of the actual motor): 7MM (.287")
Other end shaft length (measurement of the actual motor): 9MM (.342")
Shaft Diameter (measurement of the actual motor): 4MM (.156")
Features: sleeve bearings.
No load RPM: 4800
Stall Torque (called Rated Torque on the spec. sheet) (mN-m): 9.81, oz-in (calculated): 1.40
Stall Current (called Rated Current on the spec. sheet) (milli-amps): 520
Mounting Holes: 2 3MM x .6MM holes 180 degrees apart on an approximate .5" radius circle centered on the motor shaft. Holes in the shaft end only.
DCC Decoder(s) that I have used successfully with other FN30 motors that were different from this motor but should work with this motor: Soundtraxx Tsunami 1 amp.

Price: $40 each plus $8 S&H.

Pittman 8524

These motors are sold out. I leave the specs up in case you are able to find similar motors. If you find more of these motors than you can use, please let me know so I can re-supply.

Source of the below data: Pittman spec. sheet dated 1993.

Length (front of housing to end of rear shaft protrusion): 2.511"
Diameter: 1.175"
Shaft length: .562"
Shaft Diameter: .156"
Features: neodymium magnets (more power for the size)
No load RPM: 10158
Stall Torque (oz-in): 16.8
Stall Current (amps): 10.3
DCC decoder considerations: I have not powered this motor with a decoder, however my experience says that the NCE D408SR should be OK. Minimum current capacity of a decoder with this motor is 2.5 amps, preferably 3+ amps; Less powerful 8X1X Pittman motors overloaded a 1.5 amp decoder and worked OK with a 3 amp decoder. Ignore what your panel meter shows, it doesn't show the current spikes.

Price: $40 each plus $8 S&H.

Pittman 9233

Source of the below data: Pittman spec. sheet dated 1992.

Length (front of housing to end of rear shaft protrusion): 2.329"
Diameter: 1.58"
Measured shaft length non-brush end: .500"
Measured shaft length brush end: .625"
Mounting screw in the ends of the cases: 6-32
Mounting screw bolt circle diameter: 1"
Shaft Diameter: .156"
Features: ball bearings, neodymium magnets (more power for the size)
No load RPM: 5993
Stall Torque (oz-in): 31.6
Stall Current (amps): 11.1
DCC decoder considerations: the comments for the 8524 above apply.

Price: $60 each plus $8 S&H.

Pittman 13201

Source of the below data: Pittman spec. sheet dated 1981.

Length (front of housing to end of rear shaft protrusion): 3.084"
Diameter: 2.045"
Shaft length: .744"
Shaft Diameter: .249"
Features: ball bearings
No load RPM: 4620
Stall Torque (oz-in): 42.5
Stall Current (amps): 15.8
DCC decoder considerations: no recommendation, the NCE D808SR may work just fine.

Price: $75 each plus $10 S&H.

1. Torque units conversions courtesy of the ASME conversion page at

Usage Information

Here are a few guidelines for use and care of your motor that will hopefully will enhance the value you receive from it.

The motor you purchased likely has ball bearings on the shafts if it was possible to obtain motors with ball bearings. The ball bearings absorb end thrust on the motor shaft. End thrust occurs when the motor's is connection to the locomotive's gear box shaft doesn't absorb axial and pitch movement of the shaft.

A motor not equipped with ball bearings may run slower in one direction than the other or make noise when running in either direction. To eliminate this, you must isolate the motor shaft from the end thrust created by the gearbox worm shaft. Some methods are to connect the motor and gearbox with a coupling that will absorb the end play, or to have the motor shaft above or below the gearbox shaft and connect the two shafts with a belt.

Alterations to the motor that make it not returnable even if it seems to run ok are:


  1. The motor has been test run and the bearings lubricated before being shipped to you. Your first action should be to run it; check for bent shafts caused by rough handling during shipping. A bent shaft hasn't happened yet, but it should be checked for. If the motor does not run or one of the shafts is bent, please contact me before doing anything else.
  2. It is not feasible to repair a damaged motor. If you damage a motor, it is cheaper to buy another one. You are responsible for all repairs if you prefer to go that route..
  3. It is a DC motor. Do not connect it to AC power or to more that 12 volts of DC power. Do not abuse it. If you do and it fails and you return it to me, I can't tell that you abused it, so if you damage the motor you are expected to be suck it up, take the loss, and move on.
  4. The motor case is insulated, so you must connect one of the brush tabs to the loco's frame if you are replacing an "open frame" motor which is usually connected to the frame by its mounting screws. Before soldering the electrical connections experiment with clip leads to determine which connections cause the loco to move in the right direction.
  5. Any alteration to the motor shafts will void the warranty. If you wish to convert a double-shafted motor to a single-shafted motor or shorten a shaft, it is relatively easy to cut off the unwanted shaft. The magnetism of the fields will attract filings towards the motor case, the bearings, and the holes in the end bells; you must take preventive measures to avoid damaging the motor AS FOLLOWS!
    • All screw holes in BOTH end bells must be covered with tape.
    • Enclose the entire motor in a plastic bag. Push the shaft to be cut off through the plastic of the bag. Seal the opening of the bag.
    • You must provide additional protection for the bearing next to the cut so that filings do not get into it. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the shaft diameter in a piece of stiff cardboard and slide it over the shaft to be cut and up against the motor housing. The cardboard should fit tightly over the shaft; if it tears, start over.
    • The Canon, and Faulhaber motors have hardened shafts which cannot be cut with a saw. To cut them use a grinding wheel in a motor tool to cut off the shaft and smooth the edges of the remaining shaft.
    • The Pittman motor shafts can be cut off with a razor saw. With the motor running, hold the saw against the shaft; it will cut off very quickly if the saw is sharp. With the motor still running, touch the cut edge of the shaft with a file to remove sharp edges that can cut you.
    • Carefully remove all filings before removing the carboard, bag, and tape. Masking tape applied to all surfaces then pulled away is an effective way to remove fine filings and metal dust.
  6. Do not take a motor apart as that action guarantees I will not refund or replace the motor.
  7. Note that motors with tabs for electrical connection normally have the brushes fixed internally to the tabs, so disturbing the tab will disturb the brush position which may cause the motor to fail, so be very careful if you must bend the tabs.
    To bend the tabs on motors with tabs, place narrow nose pliers on the tab and as close to where the tab enters the motor housing and hold the tab in position as firmly as possible. Use other pair of pliers and bend the tab without allowing the tab to move in the other pair of pliers. Failure to bend the tabs using this procedure may change the orientation of the brushes which are connected to the tabs, causing the motor to fail. I will not refund or replace motors with bent tabs.
    An alternative to bending the tabs is to shorten the tab by cutting the unwanted portion off with a pair to cutters. Solder your connections to the remaining portion of the tab.
  8. If you have questions or problems, please do not hesitate to contact me which will be faster than contacting the manufacturer whose support is designed for high volume customers.
  9. If the re-motoring task is more difficult than you anticipated, please contact me for suggestions and assistance. Depending upon my workload I may be able for a charge to perform the re-motoring for you relatively quickly (depends on the difficulty and other problems that are encountered). If worse comes to worse, you can return the motor for a full refund. Send it to me so I can check it. If the motor has not been altered/modified/painted/damaged/whatever (my call), I will send a refund to you.

My apologies for so many do's and don'ts. I want you to be successful with this motor, and if not, for you to be able to get your money back. I trust you understand.

Interested in learning more about 2-rail O scale? Please visit the O Scale Kings web pages.


These web pages were designed and implemented by Rod Miller.