Page Originated 12/2012
Last update:

MAKING YOUR LOCO MODELS LOOK AND
RUN THE WAY YOU WANT

My Standards

Blueprinting

Every model that I work on gets blueprinted. For my business I redefine "blueprinting" to mean that I do what is needed to make a model be what it was intended to be by the manufacturer. This may be a standalone project or of course part of the work the customer wants done. A complete rigorous description of this is difficult so I'll describe my approach to give you an idea of what I mean.

1. Every loco is equipped with wipers for reliable electrical pickup. For steam locos a wire with a connector is run from the pickup wipers to the motor brush - flakey drawbars are a thing of the past!
2. All wheelsets are modified to meet NMRA gauge standards.
3. KD, similar, or customer specified couplers are mounted to the back of the loco in an insulating box where possible. If the customer desires the same type coupler will be mounted to the front of the loco; certain customer specified couplers may not be insulated/non-conductive. Couplers are mounted so their height matches the height specified by the coupler height gauge appropriate to the scale of the model; on some steam locomotive models this may not be possible because of the design of the model.
4. Other modifications made after the model was manufactured that do not improve the model's appearance or operation are removed subject to customer approval.
5. Judgement is carefully applied to determine whether a change is needed. If the customer desires they have approval of all such changes.
6. Moving parts that should be lubricated are lubricated. This includes gearboxes, valve gear, rod journals, all truck journals are lubricated except those that run in low friction e.g., Delrin and Nylon, etc. bushings.
7. The model must pass my operational test (below).

Bleuprinting is available as a stand alone project. The cost will be time and materials; if the labor total exceeds $200, the cost will be $200 plus 1/2 the portion of the labor charge that exceeds $200. Return shipping is not included.

Testing

The model must pass my test before I ship it. Please see the description of my tests under the DETAIL button.

I minimize using glue and epoxies

The model I work on are typically constructed of brass and steel parts. Brass is attached to brass with solder or screws, steel is attached by screws. I don't use glue or epoxy to make repairs, rather soldered joints are repaired by soldering, and screwed joints are repaired with screws. In certain situations I do use glue and epoxy. Light lenses or other items that may need to be removed are glued with water based glue allowing removal of the item by wetting it. Permanent attachments, such fastening a motor to its mount are made with silicone sealer (when the joint is cured you can pick up the chassis by using the motor as a handle) or for small motors, double sided tape is proven in my experience. Engine to tender deck plates will have an insulating sheet of plastic super glued to the bottom.

The use of ACC to repair broken solder joints is avoided where possible because the joint usually breaks again. The correct repair, resoldering, is then much more difficult because of the ACC coating the surfaces to be joined must be removed.

Interested in learning more about 2-rail O scale? Please visit the O Scale Kings web pages.
These web pages were designed and implemented by Rod Miller.
© 1998-2025 Rod Miller All Rights Reserved